After 13 hs we arrived in crazy Salvador where the favelas are right next to the richer areas, modern buildings right next to colonial ones, restored houses side-by-side with the decaying ones and where dodgy streets in which tourists are not supposed to walk adjoin to the main tourist areas. Salvador is on the world cultural heritage list and is a very big city with many African-Brazilians since it`s the heart of their culture. It seems to be a rough city but has a cool vibe about it.
During our exploration-walk we saw some good street art, even joggers, passed out children on the pavement, forts near the sea, many tourists from all over the world, for the first time lots of backpackers and Rastafaris that started drumming and rattling in the streets spontaneously.
As everywhere in Brazil shops are totally over-staffed: most staff members only stand there and don't do anything really.
We went to one of those restaurants where you choose from a buffet and pay per kilogram. Down the steep side of the city towards the sea we took the apparently very famous elevator.
At night, on our way to an intoxicating African-Brazilian dance show with Capoeira (at least 10 back-flips in a row) and more in a theater we sat down on the square where Michael Jackson has made his "They don't care about us"-video and watched a big waste container where people, one after another, came to look for recyclable material. They all collected different things...
With the German girls Sabrina and Olivia that we had met up with again, we went to a restaurant where my tuna salad was disgusting and not eatable. We asked the waiters to replace it but they refused. When I, thereupon, refused to pay they called the tourist police and all of us walked over to the police station where a friendly old man welcomed us. He seemed very amused when we stated the problem and he heard that the whole concern was about 13 Reales (6 €). He sent for the chief who acted very diplomatic and suggested to pay half the price. Both sides agreed.
After that we walked to the crowded square where we drank a couple of Caipiroskas (wodka instead of cachaca) and Malte kept trying all different types (with passion fruit, cocoa, cashew fruit...). A band drummed and sang.
Later it was getting wild: parades drummed and danced their way through the streets. Behind the drummers African-Brazilians (consisting of muscles only) danced an incredibly powerful choreography which some of the crowd copied. Even tourists joined in. It was packed and there was such an energetic atmosphere; I was high on drums!
But very soon Malte got nervous. He said that a bunch of young men was always around us and that they reached into his pocket where he kept his wallet on a string. He was right: wherever we moved, they stood right behind us in the crowd. Olivia, too, started feeling uncomfortable. Suddenly there was a tumult, I turned my head and all I saw was Malte grabbing a guy from behind, the guy turned around, lifted his shirt and with the most innocent smile claimed that he hadn`t done anything. But Malte`s wallet was gone! Malte had felt them ripping the string but couldn`t help it. It happened too fast and there were too many of them. We went home.
Only about 12 Reales gone but unfortunately his ID card, too. Similar things had happened to other travellers we spoke to. Just like the Lonely Planet says: If you`re going to get pickpocketed or mugged in Brazil it`s likely to happen in Salvador. :( I was surprised and confused how obvious and impudent they had done it.
So today I spent most of the day in the hostel after I had walked Malte to the station where he took the bus to the airport because he`s going home today.
In total it was an awesome journey again. Brazil is a great country, but very expensive. Even though I missed the backpacker scene, especially the Australians and the English, we made friends with some very nice people. I wouldn`t mind staying for another month but I`m also looking forward to being in the snow again. Thank you again, dear parents, for your -not only financial- support.